Why cats scratch
Scratching serves four distinct functions:
- Claw maintenance: Removes the outer sheath of old nail and exposes the sharp layer beneath.
- Scent marking: Interdigital glands between the toes deposit pheromones onto the scratched surface — leaving both a chemical and a visual signal for other cats.
- Muscle stretching: The full-body extension of a good scratch session stretches the back, shoulders, and forelegs — cats typically scratch immediately after waking for this reason.
- Stress relief: High-arousal situations — other cats nearby, changes to the home — often trigger scratching at thresholds like door frames and windows.
Research published in the Journal of Applied Animal Behaviour Science confirms that cats show a strong preference for scratching surfaces near locations they use frequently — their sleeping area, the main entrance, and beside resources. Providing posts in those locations reduces furniture scratching significantly.
Choosing the right scratching post
Vertical post
Needs to be tall enough for a full body stretch — at least 90 cm for an adult cat. Must be stable; a wobbling post will be abandoned.
Best for: cats who scratch walls, door frames, and the back of sofas.
Horizontal scratcher
Flat corrugated cardboard or sisal mat on the floor. Many cats who scratch carpets prefer a horizontal surface.
Best for: cats who scratch carpets, rugs, or the bottom of furniture.
Angled scratcher
A compromise between vertical and flat. Useful if your cat scratches both orientations, or as a first post for kittens.
Best for: kittens and cats that have not shown a strong preference yet.
Materials that work
Sisal rope or sisal fabric is the most popular material — it has a satisfying texture and withstands heavy use. Corrugated cardboard is cheap and effective for horizontal scratchers. Avoid carpet-covered posts; carpet is indistinguishable from the floor and may encourage floor scratching.
How many posts, and where
The general rule is one post per cat, plus one additional. For a two-cat household, three posts. Place them:
- Next to wherever furniture has already been scratched
- Near sleeping spots (cats scratch immediately after waking)
- Near doors or windows where cats sit and watch outside
- Near the litter box area (especially in multi-cat homes where resources cluster)
Protecting furniture during the transition
While your cat learns to use posts, reduce the appeal of existing spots with double-sided sticky tape (cats dislike the texture), aluminium foil, or a purpose-made furniture protector panel. These can be removed after two to four weeks of consistent post use.
Never declaw. Onychectomy (surgical removal of the claw and last bone of each toe) is prohibited in the UK, much of Europe, and many US states. It is painful, causes long-term gait problems, and removes the cat's primary defence mechanism. The International Cat Care position on declawing aligns with WSAVA guidance that no welfare-accepted alternative exists.